5 Tips for Safer Rappels

1: Use a backup This may be the most important rule in increasing your safety while rappelling.  When setting up your rappel, incorporate a prussic (or an autoblock, which is quicker to rig) below your rappel device.  If using an read more…

OR Splitter Glove

I was super reluctant to try out a pair of crack gloves…  While I have taped my hands in the past for certain routes, the idea of wearing a crack glove really seemed like cheating!  Nonetheless, I gave them a read more…

Outdoor Research “Uberlayer” Jacket

If you are looking for an awesome insulating layer that wi ll keep you warm, breath and work alone as an outerlayer as well, look no further.  I got to use this jacket last season and it is great.  The days read more…

Japan Dreams

Japan and skiing. These are two words I had never associated. I pictured Japan as the land of electronics, cheaper cars, bustling Tokyo, and fast-paced life. My image of mountains and Japan was really limited to that of the most read more…

Northern Norway

ICE LOVE IN NORWAY The scariest part of the trip was driving down in the rain to the Setermoen area, 2.5 hours south of Tromso, when Tina and I could not keep our eyes on the road, but rather were looking read more…

Scarpa Rebel GTX carbon

I’ve been using the Rebel GTX carbon for about 6 weeks now, both guiding and doing some personal climbing.  I have probably logged about 30 days in the boots.  Bottom line is they are the best summer Alpine boots I read more…

Tips for Safer Climbing at the Crag

https://vimeo.com/67428080

Choosing the right boot

Since a lot of work I do involves Alpine objectives and summertime mountaineering, I get a lot of questions regarding what type of boots to buy.  Without exaggeration I spend at least 200+ days a year in mountain boots and read more…

BlueWater 9.1 Icon Rope

I’m tied into a rope at least 250 days a year so I feel I have a good sense on what works and what doesn’t.  Generally speaking a skinny rope will be lighter,  handle better, have a lower impact force read more…

Outdoor Research “Warrant” Gloves

Gloves are one of the the most important, yet least talked about pieces of gear for ice climbing.  You need a pair of gloves that will keep your hands warm and still offer good dexterity.  Normally I climb with a read more…

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